Victoria Falls , at 2 days the second longest scheduled rest of the 4 months and Cheryl was flying up from Johannesburg to spend the time with us. We planned 2 nights at Matetsi Water Lodge in Zimbabwe and the final night at the Royal Livingstone Hotel in Zambia. We were curious about what to expect from Matetsi even though it was an ‘andbeyond’ Lodge as things in Zimbabwe have been pretty tough to say the least for some time thanks to Mad Bob. We need not have worried. The staff were obviously pleased to have guests and the company standard was maintained throughout our stay.
The last time we were here was about 5 years ago and the town of Victoria Falls was virtually empty of tourists this time however it was immediately obvious that things here had improved. The ‘Water’ lodge is beautifully sited on the Zambezi River split into 3 smaller camps.
The rooms were as good as any I have been in. Spacious, private, great design, each with a plunge pool and of course luxury linen, bathroom products and perfectly sited. Game drives, sunset cruise and the all important inclusive food and drinks and we were happy campers. Meals were as always sensational and taken together outdoors by the river, peaceful at dawn for breakfast and relaxing at night. This week we were told was the busiest they have been for 10 years. The 6 of us in 1 camp and 2 rooms taken in each of the other 2 camps also.
There was plenty of action in camp as warthogs visited, hippo’s snorted all evening and 3 of the largest elephants i have seen to which we of course we got far closer to than was safe or advisable. Unlike Annalise we abided by the African safari advice of “whatever you do don’t run” when we were mock charged and after the 2nd time carefully backed away. Those things are big up close and even more so when angry !!
The other big game thrill was a wild dog sighting. Now I have to preface this by saying Wild Dogs are rare and endangered, they are exciting to watch and move quickly in a pack across a huge area, for all these reasons their sightings are always met with a great deal of excitement .... unless of course you are Cheryl,Patrick and Wayne who have seen just about every wild dog on the planet. We have been incredibly ‘wild dog’ fortunate. Embarrassingly our initial reaction to the guides enthusiasm was underwhelming and for him a little confusing as it was not quite what he had expected. We explained our uncanny wild dog history and we headed off to find them, which we did happily making their way along the main road which bisects the park.
Our final night was at the Royal Livingstone Hotel. We visited ‘the falls’ and got completely soaked again. For the third time for me and the second for Patrick we have been at the Falls during the high water season so we again failed to get access to Livingstone Island and the Devils Pool (so we will have to return yet again - poor us) but it is spectacular from the point of view of sheer volume of water and sound but at times the spray is so dense the view completely disappears. The spray rises and absolutely soaks all those anywhere near the ‘falls’ edge and you can get closer to the ‘Falls’ than is safe or would be allowed in most developed countries.
The Royal Livingstone Hotel is among my very favourite hotels, beautifully appointed and in an unsurpassable location right on the Zambezi River, slightly upstream from the ‘Falls’.
It has an unmistakable feel of yesterday in it’s style and furnishings and provides a killer afternoon tea.
Drinks had been arranged with a handful of riders at the Royal Livingstone Bar which sits literally in the Zambezi River and catch the sunset. An indulgent dinner was then had on the terrace with Bill, Jessica, Leanne and of course Cheryl.
The hotel currently has a new addition to their small resident Zebra herd in the form of a 1 month old calf. Vervet moneys playfully await opportunities for a snatch and run snack and 3 giraffe and a few ‘buck’ make up the hotel total. I was also taken to the giraffe feeding station by the animal handler.
