Namibia is a country of wide open space, vast desert and mountain vistas and a palette of pastel colours. It has a German heritage where Afrikans is spoken almost exclusively and like Botswana a small and thinly spread population. After Botswana I knew what was in store for us but I believe it was an unexpected surprise to most other riders. One thing that has surprised me this entire trip is the little that many riders know of the countries through which we have passed but then some did come simply to ride. We left Botswana and the landscape changed very slowly over the 200 or so kilometres until we reached the capital Windhoek nestled amid rocky ridges for our rest day. The order here was haircuts and western food. When 70 or so TDA riders and staff arrive even in a town of this size it’s impossible to avoid each other whether you stay at the allocated camp ground or like many of us opt for hotel accommodation. As had become the norm the night prior of our next departure delivered yep you guessed it, another massive thunderstorm. Those who stayed in their tents complained of another awful night and packing up of wet tents which is no fun at all.
We pedaled off out of Windhoek and after approx. 15km were back onto the dirt which would stay with us now almost to the Namibian/South African border. Riding the dirt is something that divides the riders some love it some dislike it, as for me, i enjoy it. We probably saw more ‘critters’ roadside from the bikes in Namibia than in any other country. On one occasion a herd of perhaps 100 Springbok split and crossed the road directly in front of us twice within 1km. We also had a small herd of Mountain Zebra follow us. These are now quite rare and neither of us knew of their existance. The road usually remains visible stretching for miles to the distance and often presents amazing vistas.
We were headed for a ‘place’ called Solitaire (it existed of a petrol station,camp ground,bakery & motel) which is pretty much all you come across in Namibia. We Patrick,Sam,Annalise & I) reached the top of a pass and a gasp inspiring view appeared before us partially because of it’s vastness and partially because of the massive storm in the distance directly where we were headed. We watched the rain and the lightning, took lots of photos and began the steep downhill.
At the previous nights rider meeting we were informed there was a ‘coke stop’ at a place called Camp Gecko about 20km into the plain ahead. Camp Gecko is a tented camp Namibian safari style and was we were told run by an interesting couple. About 5k out it began to drizzle and we both got pretty wet, then just as we got inside the door it bucketed down. Sam and Annalise arrived about 10mins later soaked thru, 15 minutes after that 4 other riders arrived all throughly soaked. Hot tea, coffee & biscuits were ordered. The very unseasonable weather was discussed with our host, a character direct from a movie screen. Just as an indicator to how little rain falls here the main reception area had windows but no glass and plastic was placed to protect the collection of knives and the examples of jewellery and crafts our hosts hand make. Somehow during the conversation it was discovered this gentleman had a vehicle which may be able to transport 8 very wet riders the final 30kms to Solitaire. This vehicle turned out to be quite something and we along with 6 bikes on the roof and 2 inside headed off to camp. The tour director and crew fell about laughing on seeing our arrival. It was commented that we are some of the few riders who really get it right.
Namibia has this thing for old vehicles as ‘landscape art’. Various unexpected placement of vehicles inside and outside of travellers ‘stops‘. It’s a little bit bad old western movie set and a little bit speedway battleground.
Our next rest day was at Sessriem the entrance to the National Park at Sossusvlei. The andbeyond Sossusvlei Mountain Lodge beckoned. It was a short 30 minute car ride from the park entrance and in 2 days time the TDA passage continuing south would pass right by the lodge entrance. Two nights in any andbeyond lodge is a wonderful break and tho I had stayed here previously it is such a great location that I was happy to return to with Patrick.
Food as always excellent, exceptional seamless service, Quad biking, sundowners amid the dunes at sunset and of course the return to the wonder of the massive dunes at Sossusvlei.
We climbed the massive dune known as Big Daddy which took us up behind dead Vlei and spectacular views to the horizon and had fun rolling,sliding and leaping our way to the base.
Namibia is known for it’s clear skies and this lodge has the largest telescope in the country and has visiting Astronomers. On this occasion we had Tom, a very informed young Astronomer from England who spent an hour with us showing and explaining to us the ‘wonders of the universe’. From Mars and Saturn (complete with ‘rings’ and moons) to treasure chests and jewel boxes of stars impossible to the naked eye. It was an unexpectedly satisfying and informative hour. The accommodation at Sossusvlei Mountain Lodge is created from much of the surrounding rock and sits discretely into the surrounding landscape and when you return to the room after dinner a metre and a half glass skylight has been unveiled directly above the massive bed and you can lie and watch the movements of the night sky. For us this was brilliant as the skies had been so clear each night, well right up until about 4am when the almost full moon rose and the entire room was lit up. Every night shooting stars can be seen(not always from bed) but I always try to take a few minutes anytime i’m awake at night to go outside and feel the cool fresh clean Namibian air on my face and body and take a few minutes to watch the skies. The private outdoor shower option is very popular at the better end lodges in Africa and this one was no different. To take a piping hot shower and steam rising on these cool night out of doors is invigorating and somehow liberating.
A few more days of dirt riding and a camp nearby to the Fish River Canyon, the 2nd largest/deepest canyon on the planet (between you and me,a term i have heard used in a few different locations) but pretty impressive all the same. I stayed until sunset and hitched a ride the 10kms back to camp with as luck would have it a group of retired Australian farmers on a 17 day tour and got a little bit of news from home. I was in their good books being from Oz for a start but was also in the right place when they wanted group photos at the canyon.
Back at camp we had bit of a thrill when a jackal visited the camp just as we were enjoying our oft taken glass of red wine with Dianne and Jeff over dinner.
Africa had proven to be of endless amusement with signage throughout the trip. Brightly coloured and often miSspelledd* names or really awful hand painted likenesses(ish) of familiar figures. Whitney Houston or Bette Midler on the side wall of a tiny hairdressers were smile inducing examples. One of my favourites was in Botswana, a mens roadside tin shed hairdresser about 1 metre x 2 in size featuring the likenesses of 4 USA vocalists/rappers. 3 of whom had bald heads !! .... occasionally the phrasing is just not quite right and requires a neck jerking second glance which is never a good idea on a bicycle in Africa.
Fashion* headwear has gradually sneaked into the TDA riders camp also. Toward the end of the trip I am noticing more and more handkerchief style headwear being worn by some of the male riders. Unfortunately for most the finesse required to get the ‘serious cyclist’ look just right is missing and we are curiously getting each day more and more of the ‘greek fishermans wife’ look .... a look not always flattering, even in Greece.
Felix unite was our last rest day of the tour, after an exhausting but fast and lengthy dirt ride to just north of the South African border. It was just what we needed and where the 'room wars' finally came to a head !!
